To be honest I have just compared the Lemo specifications to Def Stan 61-12 part 33 and they are mostly comparable through the size of contacts. Problem of automotive industry standards being so crap when compared to whats available in the aerospace industry. You can pick up a 30AWG wire from Raychem that is to 61-12,33 and it will carry 3A all day, this is comparable to the size of wire that is used in ribbon cables within palm tops and mobile phones et cetera.

Presumably that's only because you are using Kapton or Teflon insulation: you can't repeal the laws of physics regarding resistance.

Steve

No, modern Raychem type 55 et cetera, the cable that QinetiQ use in all their modifications on jet fighters, attack helicopters et cetera. I don't write the standards, I just used to design the stuff into what MoD aircraft needed it next.

Yebbut Type 55 is a fluoropolymer though - good to 200 C !
Off (my) shelf it ain't.
Steve

Is it me, or is anyone else getting completely lost on this thread?

Is it a competion to see who knows the most about microscopic detail?

Back to the original idea of Nato slave sockets on 12/24V vehicles...

I personaly have never seen a Slave socket on a 12V vehicle; I would suggest that 12V vehicles with the slave socket were locally modified, or after they left MoD service.

Most things tend to be squaddy proof. When the 24V Landrover HS wolf came along, various memo's came through reminding people not to connect them to the older Landrover 12V trailer, as units were getting through lots of light bulbs! But I have never heard of or seen memo about connecting 12V to 24V vehicles for slave starting.

I would therefore conclude that you can put a slave socket where ever you want on your 101 because I don't think they were fitted in service so these is no 'DS' solution!

You can of course put a socket where you like, & use one for 12v. The only danger is cross connecting one to a 24v by mistake, but hopefully all concerned are now aware of that I also hope people are aware of wiring them up correctly so as positives always match along with the same for negatives.

The point about current flow is relevant in that for the same power use the current used in 24v is about half that of a 12v system. Therefore its important that the cables are suitable thick. I would guess however that thick copper strand quality cables are likely to be able to cope with both voltages so for the normal amongst us it shouldnt be a problem.

It seems that some were fitted in service as a unit mod on 12v trucks. I was more suprised that they wasnt fitted to 24v ambi's or radio trucks as standard.
The real reason for asking was i like to keep any additions to the truck looking like the were done in service. The 432 was a REME fitter bus and had Cheftain side bins fitted for extra storage. My truck is also to be fitted with storage chests as used by the REME using 101's.

200 C, if your vehicle gets hotter than that I'd worry more about other things than degredation of wire

RS shelves have it;
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... con_uk%3aN)&N=4294964302+4294957278+4294867376&Ns=stockPolicy_uk|1||new_uk|1&binCount=72&selectAttribute=Type%2055#breadCrumb

I know this is an old thread - but my vehicle (12V) has an interstart socket fitted and I'm getting tired of having to take the battery out to charge after leaving it standing !!! So I'm thinking of obtaining a cable preferably so I can attach crocodile clips to one end...

Just been looking at prices for cables from 2nd hand Military suppliers- ouch !

Thought this might be of interest - it's a catalogue of the sockets and cables from the manufacturer AB Connectors

http://www.aerco.co.uk/images/sub_sub_c ... SB-ORD.pdf

The parts are available from

http://www.aerco.co.uk

I really should have better things to do on a lazy Sunday afternoon !

I have a pair of the SB-ORD 277 sockets if anyone's interested - no plugs though, sorry!

John

I would recommend getting a solar battery charger to keep it topped up. I have a couple and they have done a great job keeping the batteries going on the landrovers i have that dont move from one month to the next.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=228624

I have fitted the 101 with a second set of dash power plugs on the side of the battery box, and matching plugs on the lead in place of the croc clips so i dont even have to lift the battery box lid to put it on charge.

Aaah good idea !

I recall you mentioned this before...

Can't you just plug the solar panel into the inspection lamp sockets on the dash or does it have to be connected direct to the battery ?

You can plug direct into the existing ones on the dash, but i had a couple of holes in the right place already drilled in the side of the battery box and its a handy place to plug in stuff to charge when camping in the back.

Maplins have no stock of the one you suggested only ones @ 20 notes- have picked one up off fleabay for 12 quid including postage - have picked up some banana connectors and a cigar socket (in case I ever want to run a 12V) gadget...

Good call !

A lot cheaper than buying a Jump Start and lot less hassle than pulling the battery out to charge !

(Oh and I DON'T have an Interstart socket after all - just towing electrics and NATO socket - DOH !)

The cigar socket is handy to have, i made up link with one with a couple of banana plugs on the back. Can power most things now.

We use anderson connectors on the trucks also used buy the AA and RAC infact most recovery people have them complete kit on fleabay £14 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ANDERSON-SB-175-GREY-BATTERY-CONNECTOR-JUMP-START-KIT_W0QQitemZ120488147812QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM?hash=item1c0da73b64 Good for 175amp's i find them nice because you can tuck them away any were you want Jer.

Just Checked they also do 350amp one's to

Have them fitted to my 110 as battery is a PITA to get to, got one to go in 101 as well. I used a third socket so I can join my jump leads back together, one set of clips is on a short length of lead.