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 Post subject: COLD START QUESTION
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:38 am 
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Hi,

My 101 is starting to have cold start issues. It does eventually get there after 4 to 6 attempts. It cranks, both the starter motor and fuel pump are working.

I have changed all the spark plugs a month 3 months ago, replaced all the leads from coil to distributor cap as well as those going to spark plugs. The distributor cap is in good shape. Despite that, cold start still isn't what it should be. I sometimes hear a blow before the engine slowly gets up to its idle speed.

No issues whatsoever with warm start.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Carn


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 Post subject: Re: COLD START QUESTION
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 5:36 am 
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Hi Carn,

I have chased cold starting in last year on Flo..

1. Worth checking eliminating the diaphragms in the carbs, there may be a split, but behaves when warmer..

2. Check the cold start device - mine was gunged up

3. Check the cold start mixture pipe that runs between the carbs

Could you expand on the "Blow"?

BR

Roy

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 Post subject: Re: COLD START QUESTION
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 6:32 pm 
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The blow comes from under the bonnet. It sounds like it could come from the manifold gaskets. I have gone round tightening all the manifold bolts. I'll see if it's done the trick.

I have replaced the carb diaphragms this afternoon and took the opportunity to clean the crab. In addition, I have replaced the rotor arm in the distributor and cleaned the cap as well as cleaning the spark plugs (hoping to get a better spark. Might help)

The cold start devise "choak" doesn't pull up as much as it did before (kind of half way). I might get a new cable and replace it soon.

I'll see how the vehicle starts tomorrow morning when the engine is cold. Replacing the diaphragms.

By the way, my 101 is a 24V. How do you adjust the engine timing to get to the idle 600rpm?

Many thanks,

Carn


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 Post subject: Re: COLD START QUESTION
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 8:37 pm 
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I run SU'S on all my Land Rovers & when starting on gas they need priming before crank on cold start. All have electronic ignition. When starting on petrol they need full choke to fire up & then a bit of choke for driving off until they warm up.

The ignition timing when set is just that so not really going to be the problem. The condition of spark to the plugs is down to the components so sounds ok. The problem area seems to be the choke problem. I am not familiar with solex so cant offer advice other than make sure the diaphragms are good & the internal body is clean. Does sound like a choke problem though.

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 Post subject: Re: COLD START QUESTION
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 8:56 pm 
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Hi Carn,

The blow comes from under the bonnet. It sounds like it could come from the manifold gaskets. I have gone round tightening all the manifold bolts. I'll see if it's done the trick.

<Which manifold?; Inlet or Exhaust..?>

I have replaced the carb diaphragms this afternoon and took the opportunity to clean the crab. In addition, I have replaced the rotor arm in the distributor and cleaned the cap as well as cleaning the spark plugs (hoping to get a better spark. Might help)
<did you remove the carb, strip down and de-gunge all the fiddly cold start bits?>

The cold start devise "choak" doesn't pull up as much as it did before (kind of half way). I might get a new cable and replace it soon.
<If all is well it should start in this current weather - maybe not this weekend! brrr!>

I'll see how the vehicle starts tomorrow morning when the engine is cold. Replacing the diaphragms.

By the way, my 101 is a 24V. How do you adjust the engine timing to get to the idle 600rpm?

<I suggest you refer to any manuals you have and follow to the letter - The timing etc should be set up before carburettor adjustments.
Adjusting the timing will "make a difference" but Not in the way you want, unless it was out and you take it to where it needs to be!! :-).
Set the static timing up so you know where you are first. :-)
I am Not personally familar with the twin point 24v set up, so do "R.T.F.M.*" if you have one, that covers 24 ignition.

Or see who else on the forum has had this! :-)

Once the ignition is ok then the carbs can be adjusted, if need be, so:
Sort out the ignition and don't forget to set the points dwell!
Balance the carbs - once it starts! - do get a carb balancer and a rev counter
Then adjust the idle and mixture (if needed) then the idle then the mixture, etc until balanced - It's an iterative process

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 Post subject: Re: COLD START QUESTION
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 8:44 pm 
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And just to echo Pete's comment, after a frosty weekend - Flo has been starting on the button every time with a sniff of choke until the cooler weather - This weekend she would not start until the choke was All The Way Out!

:mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: COLD START QUESTION
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 10:45 pm 
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My ambi has coincidentally just developed this very problem. Its gone from starting second turn every time, to taking a lot of cranking, then a pronounced whooshy blow,more cranking, before starting, then warm starts no problem. On taking the engine cover off and observing what happens, I discovered a puff of fuel vapour escaping from one of the two gaskets in the cold start department on the carb. Sadly, these two gaskets weren`t in the replacement gasket set I bought from the club some time ago, though I note the pictures in the club shop now show them. The law of the sod.

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 Post subject: Re: COLD START QUESTION
PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 11:24 pm 
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Hi Guys,

I meant to say thank you for your advice. Just got too busy until now to reply.

I will go through those recommended checks and plan to refer the carburettors in the process (just bought original Zenith carburettor refers kit. Costs more but I am keen on original parts). So, this will hopefully result in solving the issue.

Happy driving this winter. I am keen on some snow to test my 101 in those conditions.

Best wishes,

Carn


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